Step-by-Step: Setting Up a Thriving Planted Aquarium with Natural Filtration

Creating a thriving planted aquarium is a rewarding project that brings a slice of nature into your home. A planted tank is not just a fish tank with green plants – it’s a living, balanced ecosystem. In this guide, we’ll explain what a planted aquarium is, how natural filtration works, and walk through each step of setting up your own lush, healthy aquatic garden. Whether you are a complete beginner or have some experience, this step-by-step tutorial will help you design an aquatic landscape where plants and fish coexist in harmony. Along the way we’ll also reference some practical products (like those offered by MB Store UK) and wrap up with an FAQ to answer common questions.

What Is a Planted Aquarium and Natural Filtration?

A planted aquarium is an underwater ecosystem rich in live plants, rocks, driftwood, and often a complementary community of fish and invertebrates. Unlike a bare-bones tank, a planted aquarium has layers of plant life – from carpeting foreground plants to tall background foliage – creating depth and simulating a natural environment. The key idea is natural filtration: instead of relying solely on a mechanical filter, the plants themselves (along with substrate and beneficial bacteria) act as the aquarium’s “kidney.” Fish waste, leftover food, and other organic matter are broken down by bacteria into ammonia and then nitrites and nitrates, and the aquatic plants absorb those nitrates (plant nutrients) to grow. In turn, the plants release oxygen during photosynthesis, keeping the water healthy. This continuous exchange makes the water cleaner, limits algae growth, and provides a stable, self-sustaining ecosystem.

For beginners, the benefit of natural filtration is that an established planted tank can be easier to maintain than a barren tank. Plants constantly consume fish waste and nutrients, so you often need fewer water changes and can do without complicated filter media. The synergy of fish and plants means you end up with clearer water, higher oxygen levels, and a beautiful, living aquascape. Think of it as creating a mini nature preserve where every element supports the other. In short, a planted tank with natural filtration uses biological processes and live plants to keep fish happy and water crystal clear.

Benefits of a Planted Tank with Natural Filtration

• Cleaner Water and Reduced Waste: Live plants absorb ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates produced by fish waste. They essentially act as a biological filter, using fish waste as fertilizer. This leads to healthier fish and less visible debris or murky water.
• Oxygen and Healthy Gas Exchange: Through photosynthesis, plants produce oxygen which fish and beneficial bacteria use. This improves gas exchange at the water surface and creates a more oxygenated environment for your pets.
• Natural Algae Control: A dense plant population outcompetes algae for nutrients. When plants flourish, algae often stay in check. The result is a tank full of green plants, not green algae.
• Stable Water Chemistry: Plants help buffer changes in pH and hardness by taking up nutrients and releasing byproducts. The tank becomes more resilient to small changes (like forgetting a day of feeding).
• Aesthetic Beauty: A planted aquarium is simply gorgeous. The lush greenery, wood, and rocks create a serene underwater landscape. It’s like having a small underwater garden with colorful fish.
• Educational and Relaxing: Watching a balanced ecosystem thrive is fascinating. Beginners learn about the nitrogen cycle, plant biology, and aquarium chemistry, making the hobby both peaceful and educational.

With these benefits in mind, let’s go through the practical steps of setting one up.

Step 1: Choosing the Right Aquarium and Equipment

Selecting the Aquarium Tank and Stand

The first step is to select an appropriate tank and stand. For beginners, a mid-size tank (e.g. 20 to 40 gallons) is ideal. Larger tanks (60L and above) are easier to maintain because parameters change more slowly, but they require a bit more space and budget. Glass aquariums are popular because they do not scratch easily and hold up well over time.

A sturdy aquarium stand or cabinet is essential. The tank will be very heavy once filled – roughly 8 to 10 pounds (4–5 kg) per gallon of water, plus the weight of gravel, decorations, and fish. Make sure the stand is designed to support that weight and is level. Uneven stands can stress the tank and cause leaks. Many stores sell matching stands and cabinets; for example, MB Store UK offers stands and comfort sets designed for their tanks. These are engineered to fit the aquarium perfectly and often have storage space for supplies. Using a stand from a reputable manufacturer or retailer ensures stability and safety.

Choosing a Tank with a Lid and Lighting

A lid (cover) is highly recommended. Lids keep water from evaporating rapidly, prevent fish from jumping out, and reduce dust or spills from getting into the aquarium. Many tank lids come with built-in lighting. Since plants need adequate light, look for lids with plant-friendly LED lights or use separate LED fixtures. MB Store UK, for instance, carries aquariums with LED lids and standalone LED light bars. LED lighting is energy-efficient and designed for plant growth (often labeled as “full spectrum” or “aquatic plant lights”). Aim for lights that span the whole length of the tank so all plants receive illumination.

Additional Equipment

• Filter: Although we emphasize natural filtration by plants, it’s still wise to have some water circulation. A gentle filter (like a sponge filter, small internal filter, or canister filter) helps oxygenate water and holds beneficial bacteria. In a densely planted tank, this filter can often be low-power. For beginners, a sponge filter or a filter with adjustable flow is good because it won’t disturb plants and will provide refuge for baby shrimp or fry if you add them later.
• Heater and Thermometer: If you plan tropical fish, a reliable heater and thermometer keep the water temperature stable (typically 74–78°F or 23–26°C for most tropical plants and fish). LED lights can warm the water slightly, but a heater ensures consistency.
• Air Pump (Optional): An air stone or pump can add extra oxygen and gentle surface agitation. This can help during the initial cycle phase or if you notice low oxygen, but is optional once plants fill in.
• Background (Optional): A solid background (black or dark color) behind the aquarium can make the plant colors “pop” and hide cords. It also makes the aquascape look more natural by simulating deep water or soil.
• Safety Mats or Pads: For very large or heavy tanks, a foam mat under the tank can distribute weight evenly and cushion the glass. MB Store sells non-slip protection mats that fit under the aquarium stand, which is a nice safety touch to protect surfaces and dampen vibrations.

By planning carefully at this stage, you set the foundation for success. Choose quality products: a good tank and lid, a stable stand, and efficient LED lighting. Companies like MB Store UK specialize in aquatic setups, offering matching comfort sets (tank, lid, stand, and LED) which can simplify the shopping process and ensure everything fits together perfectly.

Step 2: Preparing the Substrate and Hardscape

Selecting and Adding Substrate

The substrate is the “soil” of your aquarium and very important for plant growth. A nutrient-rich substrate supports plants by providing essential minerals and a place for roots. You have two main choices:

• Aquarium Soil: These are commercial products like aqua soil or dirt, designed for planted tanks. They contain nutrients that feed plants for months. A popular method (Walstad method) is to use organic potting soil as a base layer (remove any fertilizers) and cap it with gravel or sand.
• Gravel or Sand: If using inert gravel or sand, you’ll need to rely on root tabs or liquid fertilizers. Some beginners mix things: lay 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of organic potting soil or aqua soil on the bottom, then add a 1–2 inch (2.5–5 cm) cap of decorative gravel or sand on top. This capping prevents the soil from clouding the water too much.

Depth matters: Aim for at least 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) of substrate everywhere in the tank. More depth allows plant roots to spread and store nutrients. If the substrate is too thin, plants may not take hold well.

To avoid a muddy mess, rinse gravel or coarse sand gently before adding it. Pour substrate carefully into the empty tank, trying to get it level. Some aquarists tilt the tank and layer substrate to create a gentle slope (shallow in back and deeper in front) for visual effect, but keep it as even as possible for the plants unless you’re skilled with aquascaping slopes.

Adding Hardscape (Rocks, Wood, Decor)

With the substrate in place, plan your hardscape – the rocks, driftwood, or roots that shape the look. Hardscape elements serve both aesthetic and functional purposes:

• Aesthetics: They create focal points and mimic nature (riverbeds, forests, etc.). Popular choices include smooth river rocks, volcanic rock, bogwood, or Malaysian driftwood.
• Functionality: They create hiding spots for fish, anchor points for plants (like Java fern can attach to wood), and surfaces for beneficial bacteria.

Arrange the hardscape pieces thoughtfully. A common design rule is the “golden triangle” or triangular layout: one large centerpiece rock/wood at one side, balancing smaller pieces on the opposite side, which is pleasing to the eye. Always make sure each piece is stable – press it into the substrate so it won’t topple when water is added. You may want to set the equipment (filter, heater) in the tank at this point (turned off) to see how it fits behind or between rocks and wood. Hiding equipment behind a rock or plant cluster looks more natural.

Take your time here. If possible, work at “dry placement”: arrange plants and decor dry before adding water (as Aquarium Co-Op recommends). This avoids disturbing the substrate later. Spend a few minutes planting placeholder stems or marking where tall background plants will go; this lets you adjust rocks and wood first.

Tip: If your hardscape (e.g. lava rock) seems to float a little, you can bury part of it slightly in the substrate or use aquarium-safe aquarium glue or thread to secure it to driftwood.

Step 3: Adding Water and Cycling the Tank

Filling the Aquarium with Water

Now it’s time to add water, but do it gently to avoid disturbing the substrate and decor. Place a plate, saucer, or plastic bag on the bottom and pour water slowly onto it. This way, the water dissipates its energy over the plate and keeps your carefully arranged substrate in place.

Fill the aquarium about halfway initially. Leaving room to maneuver is helpful for planting. Once halfway is filled:

• Install Equipment: Place the heater, filter (or sponge filter), and any other equipment into the tank. Do not turn them on yet if the water is very low.
• Top Up: Finish filling with water (again, through the plate or onto a rock to avoid stirring the substrate). Use dechlorinated water (tap water treated with a water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and chloramine) so you don’t harm future fish or beneficial bacteria. The Aquarium Co-Op recommends products like Easy Green conditioner to remove toxins – any good dechlorinator will do.

After the tank is nearly full, you can power on the heater and filter. Check the seal on your tank while filling – if there are any leaks, address them immediately (it should hold water or the sealant is intact).

Cycling the Aquarium (Nitrogen Cycle)

Cycling is a critical concept. Before adding fish, we need to establish a colony of beneficial bacteria. These microorganisms convert toxic ammonia (from fish waste) to nitrite, and then nitrite to nitrate (less toxic). In a planted tank, the nitrate becomes plant food. This process, known as the nitrogen cycle, typically takes a few weeks to stabilize.

There are a few ways to cycle:

• Fishless cycling: You can add a source of ammonia (pure ammonia drops or a small amount of fish food) to feed bacteria without risking fish. Test the water over days/weeks until ammonia and nitrite spike and then drop to zero. This means your tank is cycled (only nitrate remains).
• Wait for “natural” cycle: If you add a few hardy fish or shrimp right away, the waste they produce will cycle the tank, but you must monitor parameters closely. Never add too many fish – start with just 1 or 2, and watch the ammonia levels. If ammonia rises, do partial water changes or reduce feeding until it drops.
• Seed with bacteria: Some aquarists add bottled nitrifying bacteria supplements or take filter media from an established tank to speed up cycling. In a plant-heavy tank, the substrate and décor surfaces will eventually harbor bacteria too. You can even let an anemone or some hardy plants (like Java moss) grow a micro-biofilm.

During cycling, the plants are already helping by consuming some ammonia/nitrite, but you should still allow the full cycle to complete. Use a test kit to check ammonia (NH₃), nitrite (NO₂⁻), and nitrate (NO₃⁻) every few days. When ammonia and nitrite are consistently zero (and nitrate appears), the water is safe for a full fish load.

Patience is key. A rushed cycle can make fish sick. Use this time to fine-tune temperature (use the thermometer), make sure the filter is running quietly, and perhaps add beneficial bacteria products if you like.

Step 4: Planting Your Aquarium

With the tank half-full (or fully filled if you prefer), it’s time to plant your aquatic garden. Planting before adding fish or invertebrates ensures the roots get established. Follow these steps:

Choosing Beginner-Friendly Plants

For your first planted tank, start with hardy, undemanding species:

• Background plants (taller): Vallisneria, Amazon Sword (Echinodorus), Rotala, and Cabomba. These grow tall and fast, filling the rear of the tank.
• Midground plants: Cryptocoryne species, Java Fern (Microsorum), Anubias, Bucephalandra. They vary in height (Java Fern and Anubias are versatile and easy). Anubias and Java Fern attach to wood or rocks and do not need to be buried.
• Foreground (short) plants: Dwarf Hairgrass, Java Moss, Dwarf Sagittaria, and small Crypts. These create a lush “carpet” or foreground accent.
• Floating plants (optional): Duckweed, Water Sprite, or Frogbit can rest on the surface and provide shade, though they can grow fast and cover the entire surface if not pruned.

When shopping, ask for “low light” or “easy” plants if you don’t have a high-end light or CO₂ system. Many stores, including MB Store (Diversa brand), have plant packs or beginner plant kits.

Planting Technique

1. Plan your layout: Place taller plants in the back or sides. Smaller plants in front or around decorations. Leave open swimming space (especially near the front). The Aquarium Co-Op suggests imagining the aquarium like a canvas: background, middle, foreground layers.
2. Plant in water: You can plant one clump at a time. Using tweezers (or your fingers), gently pick up a plant and insert its roots into the substrate. Push an inch or so down. Be careful not to crush delicate leaves. For rooted plants like Crypts, create a small hole, insert the roots, and close the substrate around it.
3. Attach epiphytes: Plants like Java Fern and Anubias have rhizomes (thick root stems). Do NOT bury their rhizome in the substrate – burying it can kill them. Instead, tie or wedge these plants onto rocks or wood with cotton thread or nylon fishing line. Over time, their roots will attach. Mosses can be tied as well.
4. Space them out: Don’t cluster plants too tightly (unless it’s a carpet plant). If you make their roots crowded, water flow might not reach all of them. A few inches apart is good; they will grow and fill gaps.
5. Cover substrate: Try to cover most of the bare substrate. An uncovered substrate can release waste and will also give algae a chance to grow on it. More plant mass means better filtering and less light reaching algae-growing surfaces.

After planting, double-check that everything is secure. If anything floats up, weigh it down with a small pebble or rebury it a bit more.

Final Fill and Equipment Check

Now finish filling the tank if you haven’t already. Gently top up with dechlorinated water. Once full, turn on the light, filter, heater, and air pump (if used). The plants need light for photosynthesis immediately, but start with a short photoperiod (5–6 hours of light a day). This helps them acclimate and reduces algae risk in the beginning.

Ensure water temperature and equipment are running smoothly. Your planted tank is now set up – but remember, it’s a growing ecosystem. Give it a few days to settle (the plants will start growing, the filter bacteria will mature), and then you can think about adding aquatic life.

Step 5: Establishing Natural Filtration

At this point you have a planted aquarium with running water. Natural filtration will develop gradually:

• Beneficial Bacteria: They colonize all surfaces (substrate, plants, décor, glass). In a planted tank, the substrate and plant surfaces hold tons of bacteria – often more than in the filter itself. Over the next few weeks, these bacteria will continue the nitrogen cycle. As long as ammonia and nitrites are low, your plants help take up nitrates.
• Plant Growth as Filter: As plants grow, they absorb nitrates, phosphates, and other waste compounds. This uptake is the heart of natural filtration. Fast-growing plants (like Vallisneria or Hornwort) will use up more nutrients. Slow-growing plants (Anubias, Crypts) act more as stable decor.
• Balancing Fish and Plants: A good rule (in line with the Walstad method) is to keep fish stocking modest. A commonly cited ratio is about 1 small fish per 10 liters of water or 10 plants per fish. Too many fish overwhelm the plants. If you have 40 gallons, start with just a handful of small fish. The plants will gradually control the waste.

While the tank is establishing, you’ll see the natural balance form. The key is slow, patient introduction of fish:

1. Cycle complete: Wait for ammonia and nitrite to read 0 (or as close as you can keep them with strong planting).
2. Add a few hardy fish: Choose resilient beginners like small tetras (Neons, Rasboras), Otocinclus catfish (algae eaters), or livebearers (Guppies, Platies). MB Store reviews mention people liking tetras, guppies, mollies with planted tanks. Start with 3–6 of a schooling fish, rather than 20 at once.
3. Monitor water: After 5–7 days, test again. If all is well, add a few more fish (another small school or some bottom dwellers). Continue gradually until you reach your desired population. Always keep track of fish species requirements (temperature, pH) and try to choose community fish that like similar conditions.
4. Cleanup crew: Natural filtration is helped by detritivores. Consider adding a few snails or shrimp. For example, Amano shrimp and Nerite snails eat algae and leftover food. Cherry shrimp and Ramshorn snails scavenge. These small critters are safe with plants and help break down debris.

As fish grow, they will produce more waste, which plants will keep filtering. Over time, ideally you may not need much mechanical filtration at all. Some aquarists remove the filter or let it run only on low flow, relying on the plants and substrate bacteria for most of the work. A gentle sponge filter or airstone is often all that’s needed in a low-tech planted tank. The natural filtration process will keep your water clearer and healthier than with no plants.

Step 6: Lighting, CO₂, and Nutrients

For plants to thrive (and thus filter naturally), they need good light and nutrients, just like a garden.

Lighting

Plants require light for photosynthesis. Use an LED light designed for aquariums, as it provides a balanced spectrum. Aim for about 6–8 hours of light per day once the plants are established. You can gradually extend the photoperiod to 8-10 hours if you see healthy growth (ensure not to cause algae by too much light too fast). Invest in a timer for consistency – plants do best on a regular schedule.

Be cautious: intense light with insufficient nutrients can lead to algae blooms. If you see algae (green or brown film on glass/plants), try cutting back light a bit or check if nutrient balance is off (see below). Some amount of algae is normal (especially on new plants), but it should not overwhelm the tank.

Carbon Dioxide (CO₂)

CO₂ is one of the nutrients plants use in photosynthesis (along with light, nitrogen, phosphate, and trace elements). In low-tech setups, fish respiration and surface exchange usually provide enough CO₂ for moderate plant growth, especially if the tank is not overly lit. Beginner tanks often skip CO₂ injection because it adds complexity. Only consider CO₂ systems once you’re comfortable with basic plants and if you have high-light plants (like requiring an injection).

If you do add CO₂ (DIY yeast bottle or pressurized system), it can greatly speed plant growth. But remember to add CO₂ slowly and monitor pH. Many beginners thrive without adding any extra CO₂, relying on regular air exchange (some aquarists just leave a filter running to help dissolve CO₂).

Nutrient Supplementation

Even rich soil eventually runs low on nutrients, and plants use up what fish produce. You should feed plants with fertilizers:

• Root Tabs: If you used an inert gravel substrate, root tabs are essential. Stick these nutrient tablets into the substrate near root-feeding plants (Crypts, Sword plants). They slowly release nutrients in the root zone.
• Liquid Fertilizer: For water column feeders (like stem plants), a comprehensive liquid fertilizer (often called “all-in-one” or “Macro/Micronutrient fertilizer”) can be added weekly. Follow the dosage on the label. The aquariumcoop mentioned “Easy Green all-in-one fertilizer” as an example. MB Store may carry plant fertilizer products too.
• Minerals: Some specialists add trace elements (iron, etc.) but many all-in-one fertilizers already include these.

With natural filtration, avoid over-fertilizing. A balanced planted tank often only needs mild supplementation because the fish waste provides a lot of nutrients. Look at the plant leaves: if new leaves are pale or plants become spindly, a bit more fertilizer helps. If algae spikes, you might be overdoing it or have too much light. The key is observation: healthy plants have vibrant green leaves and steady new growth.

Step 7: Maintenance for a Healthy Ecosystem

Even a natural planted tank requires care. Here’s how to keep it thriving:

• Regular Water Changes: Do a partial water change (10–20%) every 1-2 weeks in the beginning. This dilutes any excess nitrates or pollutants. Over time, as the tank matures, many planted aquarists report needing to change water much less often (maybe monthly 20% changes) because plants recycle everything. Still, even in a natural tank, a monthly change refreshes trace elements and keeps water clear. Use dechlorinated water for changes.
• Trimming Plants: Fast-growing plants will need trimming. If stems reach the water surface or crowd out others, cut them back. Replant the cuttings if you like. This keeps the tank looking tidy and encourages bushier growth. The Aquarium Co-Op suggests that if leaves “melt” (turn mushy) at first, don’t panic – many plants sprout new leaves better suited to your water. But after 3-4 weeks, if plants still look unwell, check for nutrient deficiencies or lighting issues.
• Monitor Stock: Watch your fish. If they look stressed or if you see fish waste piling up, you might have too many fish. Remember, a heavily planted aquarium often goes with lighter fish stocking. If you ever add new fish, dose gradually and watch the water parameters.
• Algae Control: Some algae is natural, but keep it in check. Use a clean-up crew (snails, shrimp) as mentioned. If hair algae or spots appear, scrape them off or reduce light temporarily. Check nutrient balance. Sometimes adding more plants (which MB Store sells!) will outcompete the algae.
• Equipment Check: Clean the filter sponges or cartridges as needed, but do it in tank water (not tap water) to preserve bacteria. Replace bulbs if using T5 fluorescents (LEDs last much longer). Make sure the heater and thermometer remain accurate.
• Enjoy and Adjust: Spend time observing your aquarium. Changes in behavior or plant color can clue you into problems. The balance in a natural aquarium is dynamic – sometimes fish will eat plant leaves, or certain plants will take over. Adjust as needed (trim or replant). This hobby is part science, part art.

Subtle Tips and Company Products

While setting up and maintaining your tank, you might use various products. For example, MB Store UK offers Diversa (Aquael) branded aquariums and accessories that can make setup easier. They sell complete Comfort Sets (tank + lid + stand) tailored for planted tanks, often with integrated LED lighting. These all-in-one kits remove the guesswork of matching components. Their stands and cabinets are moisture-resistant, important for a humid planted tank environment.

MB Store also sells protective mats to place under tanks (which we recommended) and LED light fixtures. Using high-quality gear from a specialist retailer can prevent issues. Many aquarists report that having a well-made glass aquarium, a custom stand, and a good LED light greatly improves their success – you can even find full thickness glass options for extra strength. In short, plan your tank using reliable equipment, whether from a local store or online supplier, to give your planted aquarium the solid foundation it deserves.

FAQ

Q: What exactly is natural filtration in a planted aquarium?

A: Natural filtration refers to the process where plants and beneficial bacteria clean the water instead of heavy machinery. In a planted tank, plants absorb ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates (waste products) as nutrients. At the same time, colonies of nitrifying bacteria on the substrate and plant leaves convert toxic ammonia into less harmful nitrates. Together, they form a biological filter. Essentially, the plants and substrate become the aquarium’s filter medium.

Q: Do I need a mechanical filter in a planted tank?

A: Not always. In a densely planted aquarium, some hobbyists use only a small sponge filter or even none at all. However, beginners usually use at least a gentle filter at first to circulate the water and oxygenate it. As plants grow, they handle most waste. You can install a sponge filter or low-power internal filter; it will give water movement without uprooting plants. Over time, you may lower the flow or even remove it, relying on plant mass to keep things balanced.

Q: How soon can I add fish?

A: Wait until the tank is fully cycled (usually 2–6 weeks). You’ll know by testing: ammonia and nitrites should read 0, while nitrates are present. Once cycled, add fish gradually. Start with just a few small, hardy fish. This prevents shocking the ecosystem with sudden waste spikes. Common practice is to begin with 2-3 small tetras, then after a week add a few more community fish. Monitor water parameters closely during this time.

Q: Why does substrate depth matter?

A: Substrate depth (at least 2–3 inches) is important for plant health. It provides room for roots to grow and anchor plants. A thick substrate holds nutrients, allows microbial activity, and prevents plants from floating away. If it’s too shallow, plants can’t root well and may float or die off. Additionally, deeper substrate supports beneficial bacteria growth, helping with natural filtration.

Q: What plants are good for beginners?

A: Easy beginner plants include Java Fern, Anubias, Amazon Sword, Vallisneria, Cryptocoryne, and Java Moss. These plants are forgiving of a range of water conditions and lighting. They grow steadily without special care and bounce back if cut or moved. For ground cover, Dwarf Sagittaria or Dwarf Hairgrass are simple choices. Always choose healthy specimens – look for vibrant green leaves and minimal algae.

Q: How much light does a planted tank need?

A: Light requirements depend on plants, but a good rule is 6–8 hours a day with a moderate-intensity LED. Start with 5–6 hours when plants are new, then gradually increase to 8 hours. If you see excessive algae, try reducing the light duration slightly. The spectrum should be full (including some blue and red) to encourage balanced plant growth.

Q: Can I keep my planted tank in direct sunlight?

A: It’s not recommended. Direct sunlight causes big temperature swings and fuels algae growth. Instead, place the tank in a bright but indirect-light area. Tanks should have consistent lighting from aquarium lamps, not the sun. This keeps temperature stable and light levels consistent.

Q: What is a comfort set?

A: A “Comfort Set” is a complete aquarium kit that typically includes the tank, a stand/cabinet, a lid, and an LED light – all matched for a cohesive setup. It’s convenient for beginners since all pieces are designed to fit together. MB Store UK offers Diversa comfort sets, which means you can buy everything at once, be sure that the stand holds the tank, and have proper lighting out of the box.

Q: How often should I do maintenance once it’s set up?

A: After the first few weeks of establishment, routine care includes a small water change every 1-2 weeks (10–20%) if needed, and trimming overgrown plants whenever you feel they are crowding the fish or blocking light. Some planted tank owners find they do only monthly changes after the ecosystem stabilizes. Always test water occasionally to ensure ammonia and nitrite are at zero. Remove any decaying leaves or excessive algae gently. The key is to interfere minimally and let the system balance itself.

Q: How do plants filter the water?

A: Plants filter by absorbing nutrients. The end result of the nitrogen cycle – nitrates – is food for plants. When fish poop or leftover food break down, beneficial bacteria convert it to nitrates. Plants take up nitrates (along with CO₂) to grow. In using these waste products, plants effectively remove them from the water column. They also use phosphates and other compounds. The more healthy plant biomass you have, the more “natural filtration” is happening.

Q: Where can I get a good aquarium setup?

A: Look for specialized aquarium suppliers. For example, MB Store UK (Diversa/Aquael distributor) offers quality glass tanks, sturdy stands, and LED lighting specifically for planted tanks. You can find complete sets (like comfort sets) that simplify setup. It’s wise to choose products from a retailer known for aquariums to ensure everything fits and works well for a planted setup. Local fish stores (LFS) often have tanks and plants too, and many online shops ship these products as well.

By following these steps and tips, you’ll be well on your way to a lively and healthy planted aquarium. Remember that nature is dynamic – observe your tank, learn from changes, and adjust slowly. With time, patience, and the right care, your aquatic plants will flourish and keep the water sparkling clean. Enjoy the process of watching your underwater garden grow!