Betta (Siamese Fighting Fish) – Betta splendens

Among all aquarium fish, few species are as iconic and captivating as the Betta splendens, commonly known as the Siamese fighting fish. Brilliant colors, flowing fins and a confident personality make this species a favorite for both beginners and experienced aquarists. However, their beauty often leads to misunderstandings about proper care. In this article we will explore the origins, behavior and detailed care requirements of Bettas, so that you can enjoy a healthy, long‑lived companion. At MB Store you will also find suitable aquariums and essential equipment to create an ideal home for your fish.

Origins, natural habitat and basic characteristics

The Betta comes from the warm, shallow waters of Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam. In nature, these fish inhabit rice paddies, irrigation ditches and slow‑moving streams. Water there is often warm, soft and slightly acidic, with dense vegetation and many hiding places. This natural environment explains why Bettas tolerate low oxygen levels and prefer calm water rather than strong currents.

One of the key anatomical features of Betta splendens is the labyrinth organ. Thanks to this adaptation, Bettas can breathe atmospheric air directly from the surface. It allows them to survive in oxygen‑poor waters where many other fish would quickly perish. However, this does not mean that Bettas can live in dirty or unheated bowls. They still require clean, filtered and heated water to remain healthy and active.

Wild Bettas look quite different from the spectacular forms commonly seen in the aquarium trade. Their bodies are slimmer, fins shorter, and colors more subdued, usually greenish or brownish with iridescent highlights. Through selective breeding, aquarists have created a huge array of color patterns: red, blue, turquoise, black, white, mustard, copper and multicolored marbles. Fin types also vary widely, from veil tail and halfmoon to crowntail and plakats, each with its own charm and care nuance.

Because of their territorial nature, especially among males, Bettas became known in Southeast Asia as fighting fish. Historically, locals bred them for aggressive contests, which gave rise to the common name Siamese fighting fish. Today responsible aquarists focus on enhancing health, color and conformation rather than aggression. Understanding their territorial instincts is still crucial for responsible aquarium keeping and preventing stress or injury among tank inhabitants.

Setting up the ideal Betta aquarium

Despite common myths, Bettas are not decorations for tiny bowls placed on a desk. To thrive, a Betta needs a properly sized aquarium, stable water parameters and suitable equipment. For a single Betta, a minimum of 20 liters is strongly recommended, though a 30‑40 liter tank offers far more stability and space for natural behavior. A larger water volume helps buffer temperature and chemical swings, supporting long‑term health.

Temperature is one of the crucial parameters. Bettas are tropical fish and need a stable range between 24 and 28°C. Too low a temperature weakens the immune system, making them susceptible to diseases such as fin rot or ich. Reliable heaters with thermostats, available in the MB Store assortment, allow you to maintain precise control over water temperature. Using a separate thermometer lets you verify the heater’s accuracy and react quickly to any fluctuations.

Filtration is another core element of a proper Betta setup. Although Bettas come from slow waters, they still require effective filtration to remove toxins like ammonia and nitrite. A gentle sponge filter or an internal filter with adjustable flow is ideal. The key is to ensure that the current does not push the Betta around or damage delicate fins. In MB Store you can choose from filters with adjustable flow and accessories such as spray bars that spread the outflow, reducing turbulence.

Substrate and decoration play both aesthetic and practical roles. Fine sand or smooth gravel prevents injuries to fins and allows easy cleaning with a siphon. Live plants such as Anubias, Java fern, Cryptocoryne or floating species provide cover, improve water quality and create a more natural environment. Hiding places like caves, ceramic tubes or smooth roots help reduce stress by offering territories and visual barriers. When selecting décor, avoid sharp edges that could tear the Betta’s fins.

Lighting should be moderate rather than overly intense. Bettas appreciate shaded areas among plants or driftwood, where they can rest without constant exposure. A simple LED light unit, many models of which are available at MB Store, is sufficient for both viewing and plant growth. Adjustable lights allow you to mimic natural day‑night cycles, supporting the fish’s internal rhythm and encouraging normal activity and rest patterns.

Water parameters, maintenance and acclimation

Proper water quality is the foundation of successful Betta keeping. While Bettas are often regarded as hardy, chronic exposure to poor conditions shortens their lifespan and causes disease. The ideal pH range for Betta splendens is approximately 6.5 to 7.5, with soft to moderately hard water. More important than an exact value is stability, so avoiding abrupt shifts in pH or hardness is critical.

Before introducing a Betta, the aquarium should be fully cycled. Cycling is the process by which beneficial bacteria colonize the filter and substrate, converting toxic ammonia from fish waste into nitrite and then into relatively safe nitrate. This cycle can take several weeks. During this time, test kits are indispensable for monitoring ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels. MB Store provides test sets and conditioners that help you control and optimize water quality.

Once the tank is cycled and parameters are stable, the Betta must be carefully acclimated. After bringing the fish home, float the transport bag in the aquarium for 15–20 minutes so that temperatures equalize. Then gradually add small amounts of tank water into the bag over another 20–30 minutes. This method reduces shock caused by differences in temperature, pH and hardness. Finally, gently net the fish or pour it through a net, avoiding adding store water into your tank.

Regular maintenance keeps the environment safe and comfortable. Perform weekly partial water changes of around 20–30%, using dechlorinated water of similar temperature. During water changes, use a siphon to remove debris from the substrate, especially in corners and under decorations. Clean filter sponges in removed tank water rather than under the tap, so that beneficial bacteria are not destroyed by chlorine or drastic temperature differences.

Monitoring is as important as cleaning. Keep an eye on parameters such as pH, nitrate concentration and temperature, and watch for any changes in your Betta’s appearance or behavior. Clamped fins, lethargy, loss of appetite or rapid breathing can indicate that something is wrong with water quality or equipment. MB Store offers not only hardware but also conditioners and bacterial supplements to help stabilize problematic aquariums quickly and safely.

Diet, feeding habits and nutritional needs

In nature, Bettas are carnivorous micropredators that feed on insect larvae, small crustaceans and zooplankton. Consequently, their digestive systems are adapted to a high‑protein diet. In the aquarium, a well‑chosen diet strongly influences coloration, energy levels and disease resistance. Poor nutrition can lead to bloating, organ damage and shortened lifespan, so choosing quality food is a key part of responsible care.

The basis of a Betta’s diet should be dedicated pellets or granules formulated especially for this species. These foods contain the appropriate protein, fat and micronutrients ratio for long‑term health. Look for ingredients such as fish meal, shrimp meal and high‑quality marine proteins. Many products are enriched with vitamins and carotenoids that enhance natural coloration. MB Store stocks specialized Betta foods, allowing you to tailor nutrition to the age and activity of your pet.

In addition to dry food, Bettas appreciate variety in the form of frozen or live foods, which stimulate natural hunting instincts and improve muscle tone. Common options include bloodworms, brine shrimp and daphnia. They should be offered in moderation, as a supplement to rather than a replacement for balanced pellets. Overreliance on very rich treats can cause digestive issues and obesity, especially in less active fish kept in small tanks.

Feeding frequency is another important aspect. Adult Bettas generally do well on two small meals per day, or a single moderate portion. Each feeding should consist of only as much food as the fish can consume within a couple of minutes. Overfeeding leads to leftover food decomposing in the tank, deteriorating water quality and causing health issues such as bloat or fatty liver. Fasting one day per week can help regulate digestion and prevent constipation.

Observe your Betta during feeding to adjust portion sizes. A healthy fish will swim eagerly to the surface and take food confidently, then lose interest once sated. Sunken bellies or lack of energy may signal underfeeding, whereas a permanently swollen body and reduced activity can point to overfeeding. Combining high‑quality food, appropriate amounts and regular observation is the most reliable recipe for maintaining a robust and colorful fish.

Behavior, temperament and compatibility with tank mates

Bettas are known for their complex behavior and often intense personalities. Males especially are highly territorial and will display flared fins and gill covers when they perceive a rival. This display is not only a sign of aggression but also a way to communicate dominance and condition. Observing such behaviors in a safe context can be fascinating, but keeping two males in the same tank is generally dangerous and should be avoided except in special setups by very experienced keepers.

The question of whether Bettas can live in community aquariums depends on the individual fish and the chosen tank mates. Some Bettas tolerate peaceful, non‑nippy species such as small rasboras, corydoras catfish or certain snails and shrimp. Others may react aggressively even to calm neighbors, chasing or biting them. Furthermore, fish with long, flowing fins such as guppies can be mistaken for rivals and attacked. Careful observation and providing plenty of hiding places and visual barriers are indispensable if you decide on a community arrangement.

Female Bettas are generally less aggressive than males, and in larger aquariums some aquarists keep groups known as sororities. However, such setups require careful planning, a tank of at least 60 liters, abundant plants and decorations, and simultaneous introduction of multiple females. Even then, hierarchy battles and injuries are possible. For most hobbyists, a single Betta in a well‑designed aquarium is the safest and most stress‑free option, both for the fish and the keeper.

Behavior also reflects health and comfort. A Betta that explores its territory, inspects plants and decor and occasionally rests on leaves is usually content. On the other hand, constant hiding, rubbing against surfaces, frequent gasping at the surface despite good aeration, or collapsing fins indicate potential problems. Such signs may stem from poor water quality, disease, unsuitable tank mates or inadequate environmental structure.

Interacting with humans is another charming characteristic of Bettas. Many individuals quickly learn to recognize their keeper, swimming to the front glass when someone approaches and associating that presence with food or enrichment. Some Bettas can even be gently trained to follow a finger or swim through simple hoops, as long as training remains stress‑free. This responsiveness makes them particularly rewarding fish for aquarists who enjoy closely observing and engaging with their animals.

Breeding Betta splendens in the home aquarium

Breeding Bettas is a fascinating but challenging undertaking that should be approached only after mastering standard care. Males build bubble nests at the surface, collecting air bubbles coated with saliva to create a floating structure. When ready to spawn, the male courts the female, displaying vivid colors and dancing around her under or near the nest. If the female is receptive, she will show vertical barring on her body and lower her head slightly as a sign of readiness.

The actual spawning involves the male wrapping his body around the female in an embrace, during which eggs and milt are released. The eggs sink, and the male quickly gathers them in his mouth and places them gently into the bubble nest. This process is repeated many times, resulting in potentially hundreds of eggs. After spawning is complete, the female is usually removed for her safety, as the male becomes highly focused on guarding the eggs and may attack her.

Eggs usually hatch within 24 to 48 hours, depending on temperature. During this period, the male constantly tends the nest, replacing damaged bubbles and retrieving falling eggs or fry. Once the fry are free‑swimming after a few more days, the male is also removed to prevent accidental predation. Raising fry requires very small foods such as infusoria or specialized liquid fry food, followed by newly hatched brine shrimp and finely crushed pellets as they grow.

Breeding Bettas demands separate tanks for the pair, the male with nest, and then growing fry. It also requires planning for the future homes of the young fish, as even a single spawn can produce far more Bettas than one aquarist can comfortably house. Responsible breeding must consider the genetic health and physical condition of the parents, avoiding inbreeding or selecting only for extreme traits that negatively affect the fish’s well‑being.

Common diseases, prevention and basic treatment

Like all aquarium fish, Bettas are susceptible to several common diseases, most of which are linked to poor environmental conditions, stress or inadequate diet. One of the most frequently encountered problems is fin rot, a bacterial or fungal infection that gradually destroys fin tissue. Early signs include fraying, discoloration at the edges and decreased activity. Improving water quality, maintaining stable temperatures and, if necessary, using appropriate medications usually halt the progression.

Another widespread issue is ich, or white spot disease, caused by a parasitic protozoan. It manifests as tiny white dots resembling grains of salt on the body and fins. Infected Bettas may scratch against objects or show rapid gill movements. Treatment typically involves increasing the water temperature slightly, using specialized medications and ensuring strong, steady filtration and aeration. As always, following dosage instructions and removing activated carbon during treatment is essential, since carbon can absorb medications.

Bettas also often suffer from constipation or swim bladder problems, especially when kept in small tanks and overfed dry foods. Affected fish may float awkwardly, struggle to maintain balance or rest on the bottom. Preventive methods include offering varied, high‑quality foods, avoiding overfeeding and occasionally providing blanched, peeled peas or fasting days. When digestive issues persist, checking for underlying infections or organ damage is necessary.

Prevention remains more effective than treatment in most cases. Maintaining crystal‑clear water is less important than ensuring that invisible pollutants like ammonia and nitrite are at zero and nitrates are kept low. Regular testing, water changes and filter maintenance form the backbone of disease prevention. Additionally, quarantining new fish and plants before adding them to an established aquarium greatly reduces the risk of introducing pathogens or parasites.

How MB Store supports successful Betta keeping

Creating the perfect Betta environment becomes significantly easier with access to well‑selected products and reliable advice. MB Store offers a wide range of aquariums suitable for Bettas, from compact models ideal for desks or small spaces up to larger tanks that allow you to design complex, planted scapes. Each aquarium can be matched with appropriate heaters, filters and lighting systems, ensuring that the technical foundation of your setup is solid from the outset.

Beyond basic hardware, MB Store stocks essential accessories: water conditioners, bacterial starters, test kits and maintenance tools such as siphons and algae scrapers. High‑quality filters with adjustable flow and efficient heaters help create stable environments, while modern LED lights support both plant growth and impressive visual presentation. With these tools, aquarists can easily maintain conditions that support vibrant coloration and natural behavior in Bettas.

Food selection is another area where MB Store proves valuable. Carefully chosen Betta pellets, frozen delicacies and supplementary foods allow you to provide a balanced and stimulating diet. By combining staple dry foods with periodic treats, you can enhance both health and coloration while avoiding common nutritional pitfalls. Staff and resources associated with MB Store can point you toward suitable products and help tailor feeding strategies to your specific aquarium.

Finally, MB Store serves as a knowledge partner. By following articles, guides and recommendations, aquarists at every experience level can deepen their understanding of fishkeeping. Whether you are planning your first Betta aquarium or optimizing a long‑running setup, access to appropriate equipment, tested products and practical advice makes the journey smoother. A well‑planned tank not only benefits the Betta but also provides long‑term satisfaction for the aquarist, turning a simple fishbowl idea into a thriving aquatic ecosystem.

Summary and key recommendations

Betta splendens is far more than a colorful accessory; it is a living creature with specific environmental and social needs. When provided with an adequately sized, heated and filtered aquarium, stable water parameters and a varied, high‑protein diet, a Betta can live several years while displaying its full beauty and character. Misconceptions about their supposed toughness or suitability for tiny containers cause much unnecessary suffering, but informed aquarists can easily avoid these mistakes.

Before bringing a Betta home, plan your setup carefully. Select a tank of at least 20 liters, install a reliable heater and gentle filter, and decorate the interior with live plants and safe hiding places. Cycle the aquarium fully, test water regularly and perform consistent maintenance. Attend to your Betta’s body language and appetite, adjusting conditions at the first sign of stress or illness. When in doubt, seek information and consider professional guidance rather than experimenting at the fish’s expense.

MB Store supports every stage of this process by supplying suitable aquariums, filters, heaters, lighting and accessories tailored to Betta care. Combining this equipment with patience, observation and a willingness to learn allows you to create a comfortable, enriching home for your Siamese fighting fish. In return, you gain a vibrant, expressive companion whose behavior and beauty will continue to fascinate long after the initial excitement of purchase has passed.

FAQ

How big should a Betta aquarium be?
Although Bettas are often sold for tiny bowls, a single fish should have at least 20 liters of water, and ideally 30–40 liters. A larger tank provides more stable parameters, room for plants and hiding places, and space for natural behavior. Proper volume also makes heating and filtration more effective, significantly improving long‑term health and lifespan.

Does a Betta need a heater and filter?
Yes, a Betta is a tropical fish and needs a stable temperature between 24 and 28°C, which is impossible without a heater in most homes. A gentle filter is also required to remove toxins and keep water clear. While Bettas tolerate low oxygen levels thanks to their labyrinth organ, they still depend on clean, warm water to remain active and disease‑resistant.

Can a Betta live with other fish?
Sometimes, but it depends on the individual Betta and tank mates. Males are territorial and may attack colorful or long‑finned fish, mistaking them for rivals. Peaceful, fast species like small rasboras or bottom‑dwelling corydoras are usually safer choices. Any community setup must provide many hiding places and be closely observed, with a backup plan if aggression appears.

How often should I feed my Betta?
Adult Bettas do best with one or two small feedings per day, consisting mainly of quality Betta pellets. Each meal should be eaten within a couple of minutes to avoid leftovers polluting the water. Supplement the diet a few times a week with frozen or live foods for variety. Occasional fasting days help prevent constipation and maintain a healthy digestive system.

How long does a Betta live in a home aquarium?
In well‑maintained, heated and filtered aquariums, Bettas usually live between three and five years, and sometimes even longer. Life expectancy depends on genetics, early care, diet and water quality. Fish kept in tiny, unheated containers often survive only a short time. Providing a proper environment greatly increases both lifespan and the quality of daily life for your Betta.