Setting up your first home aquarium is an exciting step into an endlessly rewarding hobby. A well-planned tank becomes a living centerpiece, a relaxing escape and a small, balanced ecosystem you can care for every day. To help you avoid common beginner mistakes and protect the health of your fish, it is worth following a clear checklist from the very beginning. This guide walks you through all the essential stages, from choosing the right tank and equipment to cycling, stocking and long‑term maintenance, with practical advice based on real aquarium practice. Throughout the text you will also find tips on what to buy and how MB Store can support you with suitable aquariums and accessories.
Planning Your First Aquarium
Success in aquaristics starts long before the first drop of water goes into the tank. Careful planning protects you from unnecessary expenses, fish losses and frustrating algae problems. Begin by defining your main goal. Do you want a peaceful community of small tropical fish, a single showpiece betta, or maybe a planted aquascape with lush greenery as the main focus? The fish and plants you dream about will determine the size of the aquarium, the type of filtration, lighting power and even what kind of substrate you should choose.
Next, decide on the location of your aquarium. Place the tank on a stable, level surface strong enough to carry the full weight of water, substrate, decorations and glass. Avoid spots close to radiators, doors that slam, loud speakers or heavy foot traffic. Direct sunlight from a window often causes excessive algae growth and temperature swings, so a shaded but visible spot is safer. Before you buy anything, measure the available space carefully; it is easier to adapt your shopping list to real dimensions than to move a full aquarium later.
Beginners often wonder what volume to choose. Paradoxically, a larger aquarium is usually more forgiving than a very small one, because more water means more stable parameters. For a classic community tank, a capacity between 60 and 120 liters offers a good balance between ease of maintenance and space for fish. Nano aquariums below 30 liters look attractive but require more discipline and experience. At MB Store you can find a range of aquariums in different sizes, along with dedicated stands that keep your setup safe and visually coherent.
Planning also includes thinking about your long‑term involvement. Most freshwater tanks require weekly or biweekly maintenance, such as partial water changes, filter cleaning and glass scraping. Consider how much time you honestly can dedicate. This will help you choose species with appropriate needs and decide whether you prefer fast‑growing plants and frequent trimming or more slow‑growing, undemanding greenery. By organizing your expectations in advance, you transform the project from an impulse purchase into a sustainable, enjoyable hobby.
Essential Equipment and Accessories
Once you know what type of aquarium you want, it is time to compile a reliable equipment checklist. The aquarium itself is only the starting point. For a stable and healthy environment you need to combine proper filtration, lighting, heating and suitable substrate, plus a few essential accessories for maintenance. MB Store offers complete aquariums with many of these elements included, as well as separate components if you prefer to customize your setup from scratch.
The heart of every tank is the filter. Its task is to remove visible dirt and provide a home for beneficial bacteria that process toxic ammonia into less harmful substances. For small aquariums an internal filter may be sufficient, while larger tanks often benefit from external canister filters with higher capacity and better media options. When browsing filters, pay attention not only to manufacturer‑declared flow rate but also to the volume for media and ease of cleaning. Choose a model that can move at least four to five times the full volume of the tank per hour, and fill it with high‑quality sponges and biological media.
Most popular tropical fish feel best at temperatures between 24 and 26 degrees Celsius. To maintain this range you need a reliable heater with a thermostat. A general rule is around one watt of heating power per liter of water, adjusted for room temperature and tank placement. A thermometer, whether stick‑on or digital, is a simple yet crucial accessory; it allows you to spot dangerous fluctuations at a glance. MB Store offers heaters of different power ratings and lengths so you can match the device precisely to your aquarium dimensions.
Lighting is not only about aesthetics; it determines the growth and health of aquatic plants and influences fish behavior. Modern LED lamps are energy‑efficient, generate less heat and offer a spectrum suited to plant photosynthesis. For low‑tech planted tanks with undemanding plants, moderate lighting is enough, while high‑light aquascapes require stronger, adjustable units. When choosing a lamp, check its compatibility with your tank length and cover type. In MB Store you can find lamps integrated with aquarium covers as well as standalone LED units for open‑top setups.
The next important element is the substrate. For fish‑only tanks, inert gravel or sand in natural colors works very well. If you want a lush planted aquarium, consider using nutrient‑rich substrates or layered systems combining fertile soil with a decorative top layer. The grain size should fit your intended inhabitants; bottom‑dwelling fish like Corydoras catfish prefer fine sand that does not damage their delicate barbels. Add to this a few sturdy decorations such as rocks, driftwood and roots. They provide hiding places, visual interest and territories for shyer species.
Do not forget about basic maintenance tools. You will need a gravel vacuum or siphon for water changes, an algae scraper for glass, buckets used exclusively for aquarium water, and possibly long tweezers and scissors for plant care. Water tests for pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate help you monitor the invisible chemistry that keeps fish safe. When shopping at MB Store, you can assemble a complete starter kit of essential tools so that routine care becomes quick and efficient rather than a stressful chore.
Water Preparation and the Nitrogen Cycle
New aquarists often underestimate the importance of properly preparing water before adding fish. Tap water may contain chlorine or chloramine, substances used for disinfection that are harmful to aquatic life. The first item on your water checklist is therefore a good‑quality conditioner that neutralizes these chemicals and often binds heavy metals. Add it to every new batch of water you pour into the tank. This small step makes a huge difference for the comfort and safety of your future inhabitants.
However, dechlorinated water alone does not make an aquarium ready. The key process you need to understand is the nitrogen cycle. Fish and other organisms constantly produce waste, which decomposes into ammonia. Even at low concentrations, ammonia is highly toxic. Beneficial bacteria living primarily in the filter and substrate convert ammonia first into nitrite, which is also dangerous, and finally into less harmful nitrate. Only when these bacterial colonies are established can the aquarium safely host fish. This period is known as cycling the tank and usually lasts several weeks.
There are two main approaches to cycling. The first is a so‑called fishless cycle, during which you add a source of ammonia, such as pure household ammonia or special products, and patiently measure water parameters while bacteria develop. The second, more traditional method is to add a few hardy fish and feed very sparingly, testing water regularly and performing partial water changes to protect the animals from toxicity. Whichever route you choose, the principle remains the same: allow time for biological filtration to mature before fully stocking the tank.
To follow the nitrogen cycle effectively, invest in reliable test kits. During the initial weeks you should measure ammonia, nitrite and nitrate several times per week. At first you will see ammonia peaks, then nitrite spikes, and finally nitrate accumulation as the system stabilizes. The tank is considered cycled when ammonia and nitrite stay at zero for several consecutive days, and nitrate appears at moderate levels. At this point you can begin to add fish gradually, still keeping an eye on water quality.
Many beginners are tempted to rush this phase, but patience is one of the most valuable skills in aquaristics. Adding too many fish to an immature aquarium often ends in disease outbreaks and losses that discourage further hobby development. By respecting the invisible biological processes inside your filter, you build a stable foundation for everything that comes later. MB Store offers various bacterial starters and conditioners that can help jump‑start the cycle, but even with these products you should monitor parameters and avoid overloading the new system.
Substrate, Plants and Decorations
Once you have a basic understanding of water preparation, you can focus on the look and structure of your underwater world. Substrate, plants and decorations together create the physical environment that fish will use for shelter, spawning and everyday exploration. An effective layout not only pleases the eye but also reduces stress for your animals by providing hiding spots and visual barriers. This is especially important in community tanks where different species share space and need to establish their own territories.
Before pouring substrate into the tank, rinse inert gravel or sand thoroughly until the water runs almost clear. Spread a consistent layer across the bottom, usually between 3 and 6 centimeters deep, depending on plant choice and aesthetic preferences. For planted tanks, you may place a nutrient base at the bottom and cover it with a decorative layer to prevent clouding. When arranging the ground, think about depth and perspective; slightly sloping the substrate from back to front creates a sense of three‑dimensionality and makes maintenance easier.
Live plants bring many advantages. They consume nitrates, provide shelter for fry and timid fish, and compete with algae for nutrients. For beginners, it is wise to start with hardy species such as Anubias, Java fern, Vallisneria, Cryptocoryne and floating plants. These tolerate a wide range of conditions and modest lighting, giving you time to master fertilization and CO₂ dosing later. Plant densely from the start to help stabilize the aquarium and reduce the space available to algae. Use long tweezers to place delicate stems in the substrate without damaging their roots.
Decorations like rocks and driftwood shape the character of the aquascape. When selecting them, ensure they are safe for aquarium use and do not leach harmful substances. Sharp edges may injure fish, while some calcareous rocks raise hardness and pH, which is not always desired. Arrange larger elements first, treating them as a skeleton around which you position plants. Try to avoid symmetrical, rigid lines; nature rarely looks perfectly even. Instead, group stones and wood into compositions, leaving open swimming space in the front or center of the tank.
During this stage it is good practice to plan where equipment will sit. Hiding filter intakes and heater bodies behind tall plants or among decorations keeps the view clean without compromising function. Remember that water still needs to circulate freely around the tank, so avoid completely blocking corners or building very dense walls of décor. MB Store carries a wide selection of natural and artificial decorations, as well as rooted and potted aquatic plants, making it easy to create a harmonious, natural‑looking environment right from your first setup.
Choosing the Right Fish and Invertebrates
One of the most enjoyable parts of starting an aquarium is picking its inhabitants. Yet this is also where many first‑time aquarists make avoidable mistakes. The golden rule is to match species to your tank size, water parameters, and to one another. Before buying any fish, research their adult size, social behavior, and preferred temperature and pH. A peaceful community aquarium is built around compatibility, not just visual appeal. Resist impulsive purchases when something catches your eye in the store without checking its requirements.
Many popular community species such as tetras, rasboras and danios are schooling fish. They feel secure only when kept in groups of at least six to ten individuals of the same species. Keeping just two or three often leads to stress and strange behavior. Bottom dwellers, including Corydoras catfish and certain loaches, also prefer groups. When planning your stock list, think in terms of shoals rather than single specimens. It is better to keep a larger group of one species than a scattered mix of many different ones in minimal numbers.
Another important aspect is bioload, the total waste your animals produce. Every fish you add increases the demand placed on your filtration system and the frequency of water changes. Large, messy species such as goldfish require far more space and filtration than their cute juvenile appearance suggests. A 60‑liter tank that seems spacious for tiny fry quickly becomes crowded once they grow. Use stocking guidelines as a reference but also apply common sense; it is wise to under‑stock rather than push the limits of what your system can handle.
Invertebrates such as shrimp and snails make fascinating additions, especially in planted aquariums. Many shrimp species appreciate clean, stable water and abundant hiding places, which plants naturally provide. Snails can help with leftover food and algae, but some types reproduce quickly and may become unwanted guests if overfed. Always check whether your chosen fish will see shrimp or small snails as snacks; not all species are compatible. By thinking about coexistence in advance, you avoid unpleasant surprises and losses.
When purchasing fish, choose healthy specimens from reputable sources. Look for clear eyes, intact fins, regular breathing and active but not frantic movement. Avoid animals showing spots, clamped fins or visible injuries. Acclimate new fish slowly to your water by floating the bag and gradually mixing small amounts of aquarium water over at least 20 to 30 minutes. MB Store can help you select appropriate species combinations and provides guidance on stocking density, ensuring that your first aquarium becomes a thriving, peaceful community rather than a stressful battleground.
Step‑by‑Step Setup and First Days
With planning complete and all equipment ready, it is time to assemble your aquarium. Place the tank on its stand or cabinet, making sure any leveling mat recommended by the manufacturer is correctly positioned. Double‑check that the surface is perfectly level; even slight tilts can place uneven pressure on the glass. Install the background if you use one, as it is much easier to do before filling the tank. Next, pour in the rinsed substrate, arranging slopes and terraces according to your design.
Position rocks, wood and other large decorations firmly, testing their stability. Many aquarists place heavier stones directly on the glass before adding substrate around them to prevent shifts that could crack the glass later. Once the hardscape is ready, you can plant. Mist the substrate with water to make it damp but not flooded, then carefully insert plant roots or stems using tweezers. Some aquarists prefer to half‑fill the tank before planting; either method works as long as you avoid damaging delicate parts and leaving roots exposed.
When you are satisfied with the layout, begin filling the aquarium slowly to avoid disturbing the substrate. Pour water onto a plate, plastic bag or piece of décor so that the stream spreads gently. Add the appropriate dose of water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and chloramine. As the water level rises, install the heater, filter and other equipment, ensuring that intake pipes and spray bars sit at suitable heights. Check that cables form drop loops below sockets to prevent water from running along them into electrical outlets.
Before turning on the devices, read the instructions carefully. Prime external filters if required so they are filled with water and ready to start. Set the heater thermostat to the desired temperature but remember that it may take several hours for the entire volume of water to reach equilibrium. Turn on the filter and check for leaks, unusual noises or strong vibrations. The water may appear cloudy at first due to dust in the substrate or minute bubbles, but this should settle within a day or two.
In the first days after setup, keep the lights on for a shorter period, around six hours daily, to reduce the risk of algae blooms while plants adapt. Begin your chosen method of cycling the aquarium, whether fishless or with a very small number of hardy fish, and start using test kits to track ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Do not feed heavily or add additional animals until the nitrogen cycle stabilizes. MB Store supplies starter bacterial cultures, conditioners and high‑quality food that help you guide this crucial initial stage with confidence and minimal stress.
Routine Maintenance and Long‑Term Care
After the initial excitement fades, regular maintenance becomes the key factor that determines the long‑term success of your aquarium. A simple weekly or biweekly routine protects fish health, prevents algae overgrowth and keeps the tank attractive. The cornerstone of this routine is the partial water change. Replacing around 20–30 percent of the water with fresh, conditioned tap water dilutes accumulated nitrates, dissolved organic matter and other substances that filtration alone cannot remove.
Before each water change, prepare new water at a temperature close to that in the tank, and always treat it with conditioner. Use a siphon or gravel vacuum to remove debris from the substrate, especially in areas with low flow where waste tends to accumulate. Work methodically across the bottom, but avoid disturbing plant roots too much. While draining water, use an algae scraper or magnet cleaner to remove films from the glass, improving visibility and light penetration. Cleaning a little each week is easier than battling thick, neglected layers.
Filter maintenance is another critical component. Rinse sponges and mechanical media in a bucket of aquarium water, not under tap water, to preserve beneficial bacteria. How often you do this depends on stocking and feeding, but for most tanks every four to six weeks is sufficient. Replace or rinse filter wool when flow visibly decreases, and never change all media at once, as this can destabilize the biological balance. Heaters and thermometers need only occasional checks to confirm they function correctly and maintain stable temperatures.
Feeding should be controlled and thoughtful. Offer your fish as much food as they can eat within a few minutes, once or twice a day, depending on species. Overfeeding leads to excess waste, cloudy water and algae, and can cause health issues such as obesity or organ problems. Vary the diet with dry, frozen and, when appropriate, live food to meet nutritional needs and stimulate natural foraging behavior. MB Store provides a broad selection of high‑quality feeds tailored to different groups of fish, from bottom dwellers to colorful mid‑water schools.
Regular observation of your aquarium is perhaps the most enjoyable part of maintenance and also an early warning system. Watch for changes in behavior, appetite, coloration or breathing rate. Inspect plants for holes, discoloration or algae patches that may indicate nutrient imbalances or insufficient lighting. Adjust fertilization, lighting duration or water change frequency as needed. By reacting quickly to small signals, you prevent minor issues from becoming serious problems.
Long‑term care also includes gentle pruning of plants, vacuuming hard‑to‑reach areas from time to time, and checking equipment for wear. Seals, hoses and electrical components should be inspected periodically for signs of aging. Because MB Store stocks replacement parts and new models of filters, heaters and lighting, you can easily upgrade or repair your setup without starting over. With consistent, calm maintenance your first aquarium will mature into a stable, vibrant ecosystem that brings satisfaction for years.
How MB Store Supports Your Aquarium Journey
Starting in aquaristics is easier when you have access to tested equipment, clear information and friendly advice. MB Store specializes in providing everything necessary for successful home aquariums, from the glass tanks themselves to advanced filtration systems, lighting, substrates and decorations. Whether you plan a modest beginner setup or a more ambitious planted layout, you can assemble a complete, compatible kit in one place, minimizing the risk of purchasing unsuitable or redundant items.
In the product range you will find aquariums of various shapes and volumes, along with dedicated stands that guarantee stability and match the style of your interior. High‑efficiency filters, adjustable heaters and modern LED lamps make it possible to build systems tailored to the needs of specific fish and plants. A wide selection of substrates, rocks, roots and ornamental elements allows you to create naturalistic sceneries or minimalist arrangements according to your preferences and level of experience.
Beyond equipment, MB Store offers consumables and supplements that keep your aquarium running smoothly over the long term. Water conditioners, bacterial starters, plant fertilizers and foods for different fish groups form the backbone of a practical maintenance toolkit. Thanks to this, you can implement the full checklist described in this article, from safe water preparation to routine feeding and care, using products that are compatible and proven in aquarium practice.
Equally important is the educational aspect. When choosing products at MB Store, you can rely on descriptions, specifications and advice that help you understand how individual items work together. This combination of reliable supplies and clear guidance makes your entry into the world of aquaristics more confident and less stressful. By following the steps in this checklist and using quality equipment, you give your first aquarium the best possible start, turning an initial idea into a stable, beautiful and living part of your home.
FAQ
How long should I wait before adding fish to a new aquarium?
The waiting time depends on how quickly the nitrogen cycle establishes. In most cases you should allow three to six weeks for beneficial bacteria to develop fully. Use test kits to monitor ammonia and nitrite; as long as these are detectable, postpone additions. Only when both remain at zero for several days and nitrates appear can you safely start stocking, and even then add fish gradually, not all at once.
How often should I change water in my aquarium?
For a typical home community tank, a partial water change of 20–30 percent once a week is a reliable standard. In lightly stocked aquariums with many plants, you may extend the interval to every two weeks, while heavily stocked setups can require more frequent changes. Always match temperature and treat new water with conditioner. Regular changes stabilize parameters and remove dissolved waste that filters cannot eliminate.
What is the best size of aquarium for a beginner?
A volume between 60 and 120 liters is usually ideal for beginners. Such tanks offer enough water to keep parameters relatively stable and provide room for a small community of compatible fish. Very small nanos react quickly to mistakes, while huge tanks demand more equipment and higher costs. Choose a size that fits your space and budget but leaves some margin for fish growth and maintenance comfort.
Do I really need live plants in my first aquarium?
Live plants are not absolutely mandatory, but they provide many benefits, especially for beginners. They help absorb nitrates, offer hiding places, improve oxygenation and give the tank a more natural, calming appearance. Simple species like Anubias or Java fern require little care and adapt to a range of conditions. Even a modest selection of hardy plants can noticeably increase the stability and aesthetic value of your first setup.
Can I mix any fish species together in one tank?
Not all fish are compatible, even if they share similar size or origin. Some species are territorial or aggressive, others prefer very different water parameters, and many schooling fish need groups of their own kind. Always research adult size, behavior and environmental needs before mixing species. Aim for a peaceful community with similar temperature and pH requirements, and avoid combining predators with small, easily swallowed tankmates.